Independent Watchmaking Under Fire: How Tariffs Threaten a Small American Business Built on Craftsmanship and Global Partnerships
Since 2018, Collective Horology has worked to introduce American collectors to independent watchmakers whose work is rarely found in traditional stores.
The Ventura, California-based small business represents approximately 20 independent brands, including individual artisans and small workshops in Switzerland, the United Kingdom, France, Austria, Denmark, the Netherlands and the United States. Many produce only a limited number of watches each year, preserving specialized skills and traditions that have been developed over generations.
But now, new tariffs threaten Collective’s ability to bring their work to American consumers.
When a watch enters the United States, Collective—not the foreign government or foreign watchmaker—must pay the tariff. For a small American retailer importing highly specialized products, an additional tax of 10 or 12.5 percent can have an immediate and substantial impact.
Built by Watch Enthusiasts
Collective Horology began with two longtime watch enthusiasts, Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly.
They initially created Collective as a community of collectors who could work directly with respected manufacturers to develop distinctive collaborative watches. Since its founding, Collective has produced special editions with manufacturers including IWC Schaffhausen, Czapek, URWERK, H. Moser & Cie., Zenith, Armin Strom, J.N. Shapiro, Fears, Oris and Montblanc Minerva.
What began as a collectors’ community grew into an American retail business dedicated to independent watchmaking.
Collective seeks out watchmakers with a distinctive point of view and limited exposure in the United States. It then helps them reach American consumers through online retail, original articles and videos, podcasts, personal customer service and in-person events.
The company describes its approach simply: “Retailers carry inventory. We carry conviction.”
Rather than stocking watches solely because they are already popular, Collective introduces American collectors to artisans and independent manufacturers whose work it believes deserves a wider audience.
Craftsmanship Without a Domestic Substitute
The watches Collective imports are not interchangeable mass-produced products. Each reflects the design, technical knowledge and craftsmanship of a particular maker. 
Many are produced in small workshops by watchmakers who cannot simply relocate their operations or recreate their work in the United States to avoid tariffs. Their expertise, specialized equipment, suppliers and traditions are often inseparable from the places where the watches are made.
Collective’s business depends on its ability to bring those watches into the United States and make them accessible to American consumers.
The Tariff Impact
The new tariffs create serious challenges for Collective’s business:
- Import costs rise immediately: Collective must pay the tariff when a watch enters the United States, before it can sell the watch and recover that expense.
- Prices and customer choices are affected: Collective must either absorb the additional cost—reducing the resources available to operate and grow its business—or pass some of that cost on to American consumers.
- Planning becomes more difficult: Changing tariff rates complicate decisions about inventory, pricing, new partnerships and future collaborative watches.
These pressures fall especially heavily on a small retailer. Collective does not have the scale, capital reserves, or negotiating leverage of a multinational luxury conglomerate.
Tariffs therefore threaten more than individual sales. They make it harder for independent craftspeople to reach the American market and harder for an American small business to introduce their work to consumers.
A Small Business Built on Relationships
Collective’s partnerships are not conventional wholesale arrangements. The company works closely with founders, designers and craftspeople, often helping relatively unknown brands develop an audience in the United States.
Independent makers trust Collective to represent their work thoughtfully and connect them with collectors who understand what makes their watches distinctive. American customers, in turn, rely on Collective to identify exceptional makers and provide the service and accountability of a domestic retailer.
Those direct relationships between makers and collectors are at the heart of Collective’s business.
What began as a project between two friends has grown into a small American company serving collectors across the country while giving independent craftspeople a foothold in the American market.
Collective Horology joined the Liberty Justice Center’s lawsuit because Section 301 is not a blank check to impose a predetermined global tariff program.
Congress required the government to identify particular foreign acts, policies or practices; determine how they burden American commerce; and select an appropriate response designed to address that conduct. The lawsuit argues that the government failed to satisfy those requirements before imposing sweeping tariffs on products from dozens of economies.
Collective is not responsible for the policies of the countries where independent watchmakers live and work. Yet it is Collective—and ultimately its American customers—that must bear the cost of the tariffs.
By joining this lawsuit, Collective hopes to protect its ability—and the ability of other American small businesses—to continue connecting skilled craftspeople around the world with American consumers.
Collective began with two friends who loved watches and wanted to share that enthusiasm with others. Today, it is fighting to preserve a business built around craftsmanship, trust and relationships that cross national borders.